Girls trip: Siem Reap with Mom

It's been six long years since I last had a girl's trip with Mom! This time, it was to Cambodia, after much persuasion and cajoling from Mom.

Day 1

Arrived at Siem Reap in the afternoon following an uneventful flight on Jetstar. We had packed light for this 5D4N trip, me with a backpack and she with a cabin bag. I was pleasantly surprised at the efficiency of the Siem Reap airport. Immigration and luggage collection was a breeze, and I even managed to get my wifi egg from Seatel - 7-day unlimited data for USD5 - right outside arrival. 

Saem Siem Reap Hotel was just 10 minutes away from the hotel. Hotel pick-up was available. After we've settled in our room, we headed out to town in a tuk tuk. USD 2 for a short ride to Night Market.  There wasn't much to see; the street stalls reminded me of those Bangkok but less modern. So we walked up to Pub Street instead. 

That's where the action is! 

I love how the place is peppered with cafes, and the atmosphere is alive with music, neon light, tourists. We ended up drinking cheap beer (as low as USD 0.25) and chatting with fellow tourists.

Great start to our trip.

Day 2

We booked the Angkor Wat small circuit tour with our hotel, raring to go at 8.30am. We chose to take a tuk tuk for the full-day tour. At USD15,  it is cheaper compared to a car which could cost USD30-40. 

Our guide for the day was Mr. Teav Kimsan. We bought a 3-day pass for Angkor Wat at $40 instead of a day pass at $20, so that it would give us some flexibility for the rest of our trip (tickets are bought at a separate ticket building - huge crowds!).

Our route for the day was Bayon, Bapuon, Ta Prohm (Tom Raider Temple), and finally Angkor Wat. The temples are beautiful; each is unique in its own right. We were glad to have Kimsan explaining the rich history behind the structures; it gave more meaning to the visit. And I think we could have gotten lost many times over without a guide. The distance between each temple is far (I wouldn't recommend walking!) and once you enter into a temple, you could easily lose yourself in the winding corridors and endless doorways.

We were dead beat by the time we ended our tour. We asked Kimsan to drop us at a massage parlour. Our feet needed much pampering after a day's walking!


Day 3
It was the most exciting day for me because we had signed up for a full-day cooking class at USD40 per pax. The idea was planted by a former colleague, and I was pretty hyped to be learning Cambodian cuisine. What I loved about Beyond.Unique Escape is that they give back to society. We got to visit a local family, present a bag of rice, before starting our full day cooking class.

The open air kitchen was situated in Treak Village some 15 minutes away from town centre. It was a muddy, bumpy ride but once arrived, we were greeted by a large, breezy cooking area with pots and utensils neatly lined up. For the rest of the day, we learned to cook two 3-course meals. We took a break in between to eat our own creations. By the second half, we were so stuffed that we packed the rest away for dinner.

Highly recommended!

In the evening, we tuk tuk to the Old Market and Art Centre Night Market. I've been wanting to get a hammock ever since I noticed its prevalent use in Siem Reap. And I got my best buy there - a colourful nylon hammock for USD3. I love it already!

Day 4
We engaged Kimsan again for a full-day tour. This time, we booked a car with air-conditioning so that we can travel further, faster without getting a mouthful of dust. Our itinerary for the day was sunrise at Angkor Wat (4am!), Banteay Srei temple (an hour's ride north), grand circuit tour - Preah Khan, Neak Pean and Pre-rup - followed by a visit to the floating village Kampung Phluk (an hour's ride south). Very ambitious.

We paid USD25 per pax to get on a one-hour boat ride around Kampung Phluk. Some tourists complained that it's way too pricey for a simple ride, but I rather enjoyed the wind in my face. We went all the way to the edge of Tonle Sap lake. On the way back, we paid another USD5 each to get onto a dinghy which took us into the flooded forest. It was an interesting experience. But we had to stand firm when the lady rowing us stopped by a boat selling snacks and stationery. We only agreed to pay USD1 for a bunch of pencils. "Children very poor," the sad faced vendor said. I know. But helping you buy pencils ain't the best way to help them. Guilty sigh.

Tired as we were, we went for another around of beer at the Pub Street. It's our last night in Siem Reap, a place I've grown fond of. Sobs.

Day 5
We took advantage of the hotel discount to pamper ourselves with a 2.5-hour spa session. It's much cleaner compared to the one outside, and only slightly pricier. We considered exploring a waterfall an hour's drive away, but decided not to risk it. We'll save it for next time.

Yes, Siem Reap, till next time! :(

Tips for Siem Reap travel:

• The roads are VERY dusty, so bring hankie and shades to cover your face!
• Wear sturdy shoes when visiting the temples - you don't want to hurt yourself climbing over jutting rocks. Cover your shoulders and knees too, because these are religious places.
• It's best to hire a guide to get around the temples. A good way to get immersed in the history and culture of Cambodia too. Kimsan's email is teavkimsan@yahoo.com and he can be found on trip advisor. 
• Food around the temples and tourist attractions are pricey so bring your own if you don't want to pay USD7 for fried rice.
• Tips are not expected, although I gave Kimsan some because I really appreciate his attentive service. Below is a photo of him drawing on the sand to explain the Angkor Thom construction.   
• Best season to visit Siem Reap is between November to February. From March onwards, the weather can get hot and stuffy. It's also not advisable to go to the floating villages during the hot and dry season because it can get smelly!
• Lastly, try not to give money to the children because it encourages a culture of begging. If they follow you and try to sell you something, a polite "No, thank you." will do. Don't say you will buy later because they will remember and get angry if you don't keep your word!

Letter to Almonn

Dear Monn Monn

No matter how hard I tried to hold it in, I still cried in the office. Luckily I am seated close to the back door, so I could make a silent exit to the corridor. 

Gaga was taking photos of your belongings, and we were discussing whether to donate or throw it away. I tried to maintain a neutral feeling, that you are no longer here or need such items. 

But the thought of 'throwing' your things down the rubbish bin, or donating your leftover food to other dogs, was so painful. I don't want to forget you. Or feel it's ok that you've exited our lives just like that. So I keep trying to remember how you die. Every moment from how last Saturday began, when you were still sleeping in a basket next to my mattress, to hours later when we laid your limp body back to the very same bed. 

I knew you would have to say goodbye eventually, I just didn't know it was the kind of sadness that would leave us choking and breathless. You must have known we would be heartbroken, so you tried your best to hide your pain till the end?

You know, I was flipping through your old photos at Mom's last night. Strangely, your puppy years seemed like a lifetime ago. We had so much fun. But I much preferred your old, wrinkled look.

In your twilight years, you displayed more emotions. Most of the time sorrow, as you watched us play with the boys instead of you. But you were ever so patient, waiting for your turn to go downstairs. Sometimes over long stretches of time. Sometimes it may seem your turn would never come.

But you waited. And you are ever ready when the smelly, worn-out leash finally came out of the plastic drawer.  

Which reminded me, that I just bought you a new leash a few months back. I am glad that you got to use it a few times. Mom also regularly cleaned your house and bag to keep them as good as new. I hope you felt our love through such small gestures, that you were much cherished as part of the family.

So back to the topic of donation. You have an entire bag of food left, and 1/3 bottle of shampoo! I wish with all my heart that you are still around to finish them. They are reminders of how we hadn't plan on you saying goodbye so soon.

Just so you know, I am keeping your bowl and your comb. The rest - I think it's too painful to even look. Gaga said she was reminded of your absence, every time she walked past your empty house. You know that we are not throwing memories of you away. Never! It's just that, we have to start the long process of adapting and healing.

Lastly, I want to thank you for the unexpected stop at East Coast today. Our bus suddenly broke down at the spot where we used to take you out for walks at night as a puppy.  I stood around for a few minutes. The evening breeze was gentle, and the sound of the sea soothing. It's almost as if you are sending comfort. 

On the way to town, I also passed by our old house, where we first brought you back.  This trip down memory lane was what I needed. 

So yes, I will get better with time. The pain might go away.

But our memories of you will never fade. 

You will always be our very special Monn仔。

The dreaded day of saying goodbye to my dog

You know,  I think it's true that if your dog knows that you are going to put him down, they will go before you had to make that difficult decision.

Almonn had a seizure a week ago, and had to be hospitalised for 3 nights for tests and drips. Turned out, he had kidney as well as liver failure, and the vet said he was living by the day. Heartbroken as we all were, we decided to at least put up a fight. BIL took charge of feeding him his daily medicine and administering the drip at home, while Mr. Jang and I moved to Sis' place so that we can spend more time with him. 

We were lucky that Mom was back from HK and she could send us to work every day. Gugu also flew here on Friday night so that she could visit him.

The subject of putting him down was first broached on Friday night. I was personally against the idea because I really didn't want Almonn to know that we were ready to let him go. And even though he was very weak, he didn't seem to be in any obvious pain.

On Saturday morning, Almonn threw up everything he ate, including the medicine. He also got up with much effort, went to the newspaper, and suddenly spurt out a mess of maroon liquid. The night before, we already suspected that there was blood in his stools. This time round, it got us more worried. We were still debating if we should bring him to the vet. For me, the E word loomed uncomfortably close.

Since Gugu was here, we decided to bring Almonn out for some sun at East Coast. When Gugu got out of the car (we were in separate cars), she was all swollen-eyed because she heard the discussion on putting Almonn down if he's suffering too much.

On my part, while waiting for them to come, I googled signs to tell if your dog is in pain and dying. One story touched me. The owner struggled against the decision to put down his companion, and in the end, he released her pain by simply saying, 'Go, I'll be ok.'

So back at East Coast, BIL and Sis brought the boys to the playground. Mom, Gugu and I wheeled Almonn to the seaside. He appeared very uncomfortable in the pram. From my short research, I already knew the signs that he was indeed in pain. So we decided to pick him up and make him more comfortable. Unfortunately, nothing seemed to work. He kept wiggling. Mom said maybe he wants to go to the grass to pee?

The moment I put him on the grass, he started to move desperately. And worse, he started howling. Never before have I heard such pitiful sounds from him. And I recognised then, the moment has come, he is dying.

My monn monn is going to say goodbye.

We phoned BIL and Sis to come to where we are. Initially, I thought we should make it as comfortable as it is for him, and he will eventually lose conscious there. After 30 minutes, however, he was still howling intermittently, and leopard crawling from one side to another. I didn't know if he was waiting for more people to come, so I called Mr. Jang.

Shortly after Mr. Jang arrived, it was decided that we would bring Almonn home, so that he would be most comfortable in his bed. I carried him in my arms back home. In the car, he howled less (Gugu found some pain relief acupuncture points), but he began drooling uncontrollably.

Once home, I put him down on his bed. When the rest eventually arrived, we stayed by his side and watched as he moved clumsily in and out of his bed. Sometimes to reach us, sometimes towards aimless directions. His breath turned shallow and his drool turned pink. I suspect some internal bleeding must have taken place.

BIL again broached the subject of going to the vet, and the decision to put him down to end his suffering. By then, I was a mess inside. I had told Almonn earlier at East Coast that it's ok. Go if it's too painful. But I thought I still owe it to him to ask.

I broke down as I said, "Almonn, do you want to stay at home, or go to the vet?"

It was then that I think Almonn made his decision, that it was time to go.

It was quite helpless as we watched him fight for his life. We sat around him and he seemed to want to crawl to each of us before he goes. The last was me. I suspect it was because he knew my heart was a million pieces inside. He let out a sad howl, released his limps, and thrusted his face underneath my leg. He heard me say again, it's ok Almonn, we love you.

In less than a minute, the rapid breathing ceased. And he was finally going.

I knew if we start bawling he would struggle again, so I told Sis and Gugu we have to let him go. We stayed very silent, and just let our tears flow. It was very heartbreaking.

His body shuddered involuntarily, and his limps went straight. For the next few minutes, he gasped for breathe quietly in long intervals. He was lying sideways in his pool of saliva, so we placed my old cardigan underneath his face. I wasn't sure if he was still conscious but we said goodbye and we love you many times over.

And then his eyes turned cloudy and he was gone.

The bawling started.

In the midst of our sadness, BIL managed to keep his cool and arranged for Almonn's cremation with Tengoku Pet Cremation Services. Almonn was so dear to us, we sent him on his final journey together instead of using Tengoku's pick-up service. We had a room to ourselves to spend some time with Almonn, to feel his fur and kiss his forehead one final time before witnessing his entry into the furnace.

I am still crying my heart out as I wrote this, but I really want to give Almonn what he deserved. A proper remembrance. For 16 years of my life, in my growing up years, through dating to marriage, he was my love, my support. He has his naughty moments but I can never be more proud of him, having seen how he graciously accepted new additions to the family, and bravely fought till his last breath. 

He was more than a pet, he was my comrade in life. 

I love him so much.

Almonn, I don't know how to express my thanks to you, except to say that I truly, truly cherish our life together. You meant the world to me, too. I will never stop missing you.

Till we meet again, little buddy. Always in my heart.